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1. The purpose of the author’s journey to Mount Kailash.
2. The author’s physical condition in Darchen.
3. The author’s meeting with Norbu.
4. Tsetan’s support to the author during the journey.
5. “As a Buddhist, he told me, he knew that it didn’t really matter if I passed away, but he thought it would be bad for business.”
(i) Nick Middleton is a physical geographer and has travelled to over 50 countries. A passionate explorer, he likes to take on the challenges in the extreme conditions and survives them. His experiences in hostile conditions are endured by a television series Going to Extremes. He travels to Mount Kailash for the same reasons, surviving one of the most challenging and hostile geographical territories. The author was fascinated to explore the ancient Silk Road. He details his experience of the region and his mental as well as the physical striving. However, had there been a bit of emotional and sentimental element dropped in, the write up would have been more interesting to read.
(ii) Darchen was a derelict; dusty and refused. When the author and Tsetan reached the town it was dark already, they pulled up in a guest house. The night they settled in was troublesome for the author. The open-air rubbish dump that passed for the town of Hor had set off his cold once more . One of his nostrils blocked, he tried to accustom to breathing with one nostril. However it did not provide him with sufficient oxygen so he tried to breathe from mouth. Still he could not sleep, his chest felt heavy and the fear never let him sleep for the rest of the night. The next morning Tsetan took him to the Darchen's medical college. The doctor, after asking a few question, declared that the author had caught cold and the effects of altitude. The doctor prescribed the author various medicines, one of which tasted like cinnamon. That night after having the medicines the author had a sound sleep finally.
(iii) The author had almost lost hope and felt absolutely helpless as the town seemed so mundane with no pilgrims or visitors, despite it was the season of Kora. Only the locals were busy carrying their daily activities of playing pool or ladies washing their head in the icy water. It was all very disappointing for the author. Besides, now that Tsetan had also left, he wondered how will he be able to communicate with anyone in English. He was not prepared to complete the Kora on his own. He did not even know if the snow is cleared and had no body to answer him this simple question. The author was sitting in the café when a man walks up to him. Recognising the language in the book he is reading, he asks the author if he was English. The author reckoned that the man was not from the region as he wore a windcheater and metal-rimmed spectacles of a western style. The man told his name was Norbu and he worked in Beijing at the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences, in the Institute of Ethnic Literature. He as well had come to do the Kora. He had been writing academic papers about the Kailash Kora and its importance in various works of Buddhist literature for many years. They both were equally ill-equipped and were ideal companions for the expedition.
(iv) Tsetan had been much supportive to the author during the journey till till Darchen. Initially, when the author, Daniel and Tsetan were leaving Ravu, Tsetan drove them through a route that took them south-west, almost directly towards Mount Kailash. Throughout he was a perfect guide. Soon, the turns became more sharper and bumpier. However, Tsetan drove with caution and patience. He knew the places and was well prepared for no matter what circumstances. He was caring yet an enlightened Buddhist. At Darchen he realised that the author was not keeping well and so took him to the doctor's. However, he also told the author that as a Buddhist, he knew that it did not really matter if the author passed away, but he thought it would be bad for business. Also, Tsetan was a great asset to the author during the trip as he knew English and helped the author throughout to communicate with the locals.
(v) Buddhism talks of rebirth. It does not propound Moksha. Hence, death is not an end and Tsetan understood this, being a Buddhist. So, he told the author that even if he would have died it would not have mattered as he will be reborn as the soul never dies and just wears a new body, his soul would have still lived on. Besides, they were in Kailash, the holy place in Buddhist culture. It would have been a blessing to have died in a place like that when he was almost done with the Kora. However, as a business person he would have felt bad. First of all loosing a customer like him would have not been good for his business. Plus, it might have affected his business' reputation badly.
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